1. It is essential to use a good solid-based roasting tin, so that it can be placed over a direct heat. Remove the meat or poultry from the roasting tin and have a bowl ready. Tilt the roasting tin and you will see the fat separating from the darker juices. Spoon off the fat into the bowl using a large tablespoon – you need to leave about 11/2 tablespoons of fat in the tin. Then use a wooden spoon to scrape the sides and base of the tin to release any crusty bits, which are very important for flavour.

 

2. Next, place the tin over a direct heat (turned fairly low) and when the fat and juices begin to sizzle, add one rounded tablespoon of flour then quickly dive in with your whisk (a wire balloon whisk is essential to do the job quickly and smoothly). Only plain flour should be used for thickening, as self-raising flour tends to form lumps. Cornflour is not suitable as it produces a rather gelatinous, gluey texture.

 

3. Blend the flour into the juices with very fast circular movements. Speed is of the essence – gentle, faint-hearted stirring is not what's needed here. You should be mixing in the manner of a speeded up film!

 

4. When you have a smooth paste, begin to add the hot stock a little at a time, whisking briskly and blending with each addition. Turn the heat up to medium and you will find that as the stock is added and it reaches simmering point, the gravy will thicken. Add enough stock to make the gravy as thick or thin as you like, usually 1 pint (570 ml) is about right for 1 rounded tablespoon of flour. If it is too thin, let it bubble and reduce a little. If it's too thick, add a little more liquid. Remember that the liquid should be hot when it's added.

 

5. When the gravy is bubbling, add a little wine (about half a glass) and then let it continue to reduce slightly.

 

6. Finally, taste and season with freshly milled pepper and some salt, then pour the gravy into a warmed jug ready for the table.

 

Variations:

For lamb, add a teaspoon of mustard powder in with the flour, a tablespoon of redcurrant jelly to melt in the gravy and some red wine to add body.

For duck, add the grated zest and juice of a small orange along with a glass of port.

For beef, add a wineglass of Sercial (dry) Madeira – this enriches the beef flavour magically.